First Giorgio Armani men’s show without Mr. Armani leans on classic signatures

Leo Dell’Orco designed the first Giorgio Armani men’s show without Mr. Armani, held inside the amphitheater beneath the late designer’s home on Via Borgonuovo. Dell’Orco, who has been Mr. Armani’s right hand since 1977, presented a collection that echoed many familiar Armani codes: band‑collar blazers buttoned at the throat, an Arctic gray palette, trousers with slight chevron patterns, basket‑weave knits and the runway styling touches — Carmen Sandiego fedoras, circular wire‑frame glasses and the paired, two‑by‑two suited couples in the finale.

Peak‑lapel suits and tan trenches appeared as fluid as ever, and the rippling pajama‑fit suits remained intact for existing customers. The show also included minor shifts and throwbacks: some shoulders extended in 1980s style, Deco ties worn loose, zippered blousons, and dress trousers with inverted pleats beneath horizontally set front pockets that encouraged a hand‑in‑pocket ballooning of the pleat.

The critic noted moments of excess — iridescent shirts and an overall gloss — and compared parts of the collection to past Armani eras such as the “American Gigolo” period. At times the presentation felt like a box‑checking retrospective intended, the writer said, to reassure the market and potential corporate buyers circling the brand for acquisition.

Mr.

Key Topics

Culture, Giorgio Armani, Leo Dell'orco, Via Borgonuovo, Armani Menswear, Pajama-fit Suits