How to make Irish stew – recipe

The first time I dared to write a recipe for Irish stew, I was invited on to the national broadcaster, RTÉ, to discuss my choices live on air, and I was relieved to find I had not dishonoured the memory of my ancestors. It’s tempting for modern cooks to meddle with such resolutely plain classics, but do not: it’s delicious just as it is.

Traditionally an older, less productive animal would have been used and the slow cooking time reflects this, though modern recipes tend to favour lamb; mutton will have a stronger flavour while hogget is a good middle ground. The cut is flexible—shanks, breast or chunks of stewing lamb work, but if you have a butcher, get neck cut into thick, bone-in slices or chops.

The potatoes ought to be as floury as possible so they partially break down and thicken the gravy: golden wonder or kerr’s pink are best, but rooster, desiree and maris piper will also do; avoid anything described as a waxy or salad potato. Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4.

Ireland

irish stew, lamb, mutton, hogget, floury potatoes, maris piper, golden wonder, neck chops, slow cooking, rté