Jonathan Anderson’s Dior preview blends many inspirations, reviewer says

Bright and early at a preview of his Dior collection, designer Jonathan Anderson ticked through disparate inspirations — from the fuzz rocker Mk.gee and Paul Poiret to the 1940s, the 1960s, Withnail and I and anime — producing a show a critic called “a lot to digest.” The preview included tailcoats made of cable knits, bell-curved Bar jackets, distressed cargo jorts, skinny pants bordering on leggings and houndstooth dress trousers with very wide legs.

There were also perfect single-breasted suits in cashmere and flannel, mullets of Big Bird yellow, glam rock tanks retooled from a Poiret flapper dress, python monk straps with Cuban heels and sweaters with fringe epaulets; the last look was described as an Arc’teryx-type ski parka that “seemed to have no connection to anything else.” Mr.

Anderson said “Angst” and “wrongness” were criteria he was going for, and the reviewer noted that “heels are officially a trend.” Mr. Anderson told the critic, “People look to Dior as a fashion house, and I think it needs to be pushed,” adding that a fashion show should be “an idea that then animates the reality of what’s in store.” The reviewer said Mr.

Anderson appears to be enjoying “the production abilities of one of the world’s largest luxury houses,” but contrasted this with his work at Loewe where shows often left a clearer central idea — citing a June 2023 show that highlighted high-waist jeans. The reviewer concluded that while Mr.

Key Topics

Culture, Jonathan Anderson, Dior, Paul Poiret, Mk.gee, Loewe