Osteria Vibrato, London W1: worth singing about

Osteria Vibrato appeared last month on Greek Street, Soho, its neutral frontage blending into a pasta-swamped part of the capital. The restaurant is the latest opening by Charlie Mellor, formerly proprietor of the Laughing Heart, which quickly became a favourite among chefs and industry figures.

Mellor, a classically trained opera singer who later became a sommelier, has leaned into musical ideas at Vibrato; during our visit someone from nearby Ronnie Scott’s provided piano accompaniment. The new room feels more grown-up than the Laughing Heart, not least because it sits in the West End close to Noble Rot.

The interior pairs handsome flooring and dark panelling with eclectic art, and there is a small sit-up cocktail bar at the back serving drinks such as a Death In Venice and a Paper Plane. The wine list runs to about 300 bottles under Mellor and fellow sommelier Cameron Dewar, while the kitchen is run by Gaia Enria and Louis Lingford.

United Kingdom, London

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