Ralph Lauren’s Milan men’s show leans on playful 'Ralphness' over old‑money staples

Ralph Lauren staged his first men’s-only runway show in more than 20 years at men’s fashion week in Milan, delivering a collection that surprised expectations for an old‑money Polo uniform. The opening half favored bold patterns and throwback pieces: a duck‑printed fleece Polo jacket, a ski‑bum Fair Isle Cowichan sweater and a cabin‑depicting cardigan.

The standout was a knee‑length fur‑hooded shearling, described as the color of vanilla gelato and speckled with tiny front pockets. The show was divided between Polo and the dressier Purple Label; the Purple Label looks — cream trousers with knife‑edge pleats, cigar suede tassel loafers and plaid cashmere jackets — read more like the classic wardrobe the writer had expected and made less of an impact.

The review noted that Mr. Lauren, who did not travel for the show and is 86, faces a conundrum: he has outlasted many generational peers and now competes, in design terms, with much younger copycats repackaging styles he has done for decades. What charmed, the writer said, were moments of unmistakable ‘‘Ralphness’’ — audacious styling choices only he seems to deliver.

Examples of that styling included doodled‑on pants, studded and bejeweled black jeans, and a furry Fair Isle fleece with a safety‑orange pocket.

Key Topics

Culture, Ralph Lauren, Milan, Men's Fashion Week, Polo, Purple Label