Trillium, Birmingham B4: lively, generous cooking from Glyn Purnell

Trillium, the latest Birmingham restaurant by Glyn Purnell, is decidedly not po-faced. Housed in a glass-fronted, multicoloured mock birdcage, it hums with loud conversation and roaring music, as plates such as battered potato scallop with soured cream arrive thick and fast.

Though Purnell is associated across the Midlands with special-occasion, Michelin-star refinement, this new venue favours a semi-rowdy yet still upmarket approach. The chef has translated some of his best touches into a livelier setting: an open kitchen, busy decor and jolly, prompt, informal service.

Sommeliers will happily talk you through a Villa Noria Amfòra orange wine by the glass, yet staff are equally unruffled if you prefer an Aperol spritz with bruschetta topped with seaweed jam and anchovy. The first moments are a sensory bombardment—wobbly tables, flaming pans and a menu that includes phrases such as "beef carpaccio with Oxo cube" and "XXL gougère".

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