What’s the secret to crisp-skinned fish?

Heat is the key to crisp fish skin, say chefs including Mitch Tonks. Equally important is a little prep: fish are naturally moist, and any surface water will steam as the fillet cooks, leaving the skin limp rather than golden and crunchy. Start by patting the skin dry with kitchen paper or a clean tea towel.

Nathan Outlaw recommends taking a second piece of paper, wrapping the fish and leaving it for a couple of minutes so any remaining moisture is absorbed. Season the fillet with salt and use a good non-stick pan; some cooks also place a square of greaseproof paper in the base to prevent sticking.

Heat the pan until very hot, then add a couple of tablespoons of oil (many chefs favour sunflower oil and a little butter). The fat must be shimmering before the fish goes in, otherwise it will stick and the result will be messy. Lay the fish skin-side down in the centre of the pan so it hisses, and press gently with a fish slice for the first few seconds to stop curling.

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