How to make mulligatawny – recipe
Theguardian reports that mulligatawny, rarely seen in Indian restaurants and a product of the British occupation, is thought to be based on the Madrassi broth molo tunny; it is a gently spiced winter soup that’s worth rediscovering. The recipe builds from a base of onion, carrot, parsnip and celery, sweated in ghee or a neutral oil, with crushed garlic and grated ginger added before spooning in cayenne and madras curry powder.
Good-quality stock, a chicken thigh (or lamb, mutton or goat, or omitted for a lighter or plant-based dish) and masoor dal are added, then simmered until the dal is soft and the meat cooked while almonds are soaked in hot milk or water. Lift out the meat, blend the soup until smooth, then whizz the softened almonds with their liquid to a puree and whisk into the soup, adjusting consistency with extra stock or water.
India, Madras