Leo Dell’Orco debuts as Armani menswear head with jewel-toned shift

In Milan on Monday afternoon, Leo Dell’Orco — the designer’s collaborator and right-hand man of four decades — made his debut overseeing Armani menswear, in what was the first Armani collection in which the late Giorgio Armani had no involvement. Dell’Orco will oversee menswear for the foreseeable future.

Dell’Orco largely retained Armani’s relaxed, deconstructed silhouettes but shifted the house’s palette away from Giorgio Armani’s signature “greige” toward jewel-like tones, with pieces in amethyst, sapphire and lapis blue. The show featured relaxed velvet coordinates, brushed cashmere shackets, velvet polo shirts, 1980s-inflected leather bomber and aviator jackets, jacquard knitwear and rakish suiting; hats also featured prominently.

The menswear press response was broadly positive. The show took place in the same basement room at Armani HQ with many of the same models. Zak Maoui of Gentleman’s Journal said it “definitely felt like the brand wasn’t trying to reinvent itself after the passing of Mr Armani,” while Paul Toner of 10 Magazine noted Dell’Orco’s long experience with the house and praised youthful additions such as soft leather jackets.

The presentation has also tapped into a surge of interest in vintage Armani: eBay reported a 192% spike in searches for the brand and Vinted searches were three times higher than normal. As it stands, Dell’Orco has taken the reins of menswear while Armani’s niece Silvana continues as womenswear design director.

Key Topics

Culture, Leo Dell’orco, Milan, Giorgio Armani, Armani Menswear, Gianluca Dell’orco