Michael Rider’s first full men’s collection for Celine draws praise in Paris

Michael Rider’s first full men’s collection for Celine was shown in Paris and met with positive reaction, with observers calling the work “cunning, inviting, good.”

At Celine headquarters the clothes were displayed on a wall; standout pieces included an ivory two-tone field jacket, a navy half-zip with a key holder looped on the zipper and a collarless overcoat that fell to the knees. A black wool jacket, described as the offspring of a sport coat and a Harrington, drew particular attention, while white jeans and lithe ballet plimsolls prompted reservations.

The collection reflects Rider’s time designing for Celine under Phoebe Philo and for Polo Ralph Lauren, blending a Parisian luxury rhythm with an aspirational American sensibility. Reviewers pointed to pillowy alabaster bombers and a chunky chain-mail ribbed turtleneck as echoing Phoebe’s influence, and cited blunt-edged rep ties, pre-battered jeans and rows of logo sweaters as evidence of his Ralph Lauren background. The press notes described the work as “Classics with bite.”

The critic’s main quibble was the lack of movement: the field jacket was not seen in motion and the fit of the dress pants on a person remained unclear. The writer suggested that a runway presentation might reveal those qualities next time, saying these clothes “deserve it.”