Paris menswear leans into baggy shapes as designers split on fit

The windows of Levi’s on Rue Étienne Marcel declared “La Saison du Baggy,” and Paris shows this week leaned into wide, loose silhouettes while some designers pushed back with slimmer cuts. IM Men (part of the Issey Miyake universe) presented pendulous black pleated trousers, oversized skirts and jumbo fringed scarves described as “throw blanket chic.” Amiri landed between extremes with trousers that hugged the butt, ran straight through the leg and flared at the hem; the label’s front row included Jeff Goldblum in a patterned dinner jacket, and the collection featured leather jackets, pearl-button Western shirts, faded-at-the-knees jeans and a “Laurel Canyon 1976” T‑shirt.

Rick Owens offered a contrasting, longer-and-leaner approach: shorn, calf‑squeezing denim capri pants paired with what Mr. Owens called “grotesque police boots,” and tight-on-the-body overcoats. “I usually do something super‑tight or super, super‑wide,” Mr. Owens said, adding, “it was all about that cropped pant.” He also described magnificent flexed overcoats as “just a flourish” and said that if he had his way, men’s wear would enter “La Saison du Poisson” next.

Key Topics

Culture, Levi's, Rue Étienne Marcel, Im Men, Amiri, Rick Owens